Neilson Hays Library’s Story Begins in 1869

Every story has a beginning. For the Neilson Hays Library, it starts in 1869, when Bangkok was a very different place. Swamps, khlongs, and scattered settlements covered what is now the bustling Silom district. Surawong Road itself would not exist until 1897. King Rama V was newly crowned, poised to lead Siam into an era of modernization, but for Western residents life could be harsh. Epidemics struck often, and simple luxuries like books became treasured connections to home. Until the Suez Canal opened, shipments from Europe or America took six months or more to arrive.

The Founding of the Bangkok Ladies’ Library Association

That same year, thirteen determined British and American women founded the Bangkok Ladies’ Library Association to circulate books among the expatriate community. At first it opened only one day a week, staffed entirely by volunteers. By 1897 it was operating daily (except Sundays) with a paid librarian. For decades it occupied borrowed spaces like private homes, even a chapel, until in 1914 a plot of land was purchased on Surawong Road for a permanent home.

Jennie Neilson Hays and a Legacy of Love

One of the association’s driving forces was Jennie Neilson, a Danish-born missionary who had lived in America before arriving in Siam in 1884. Known for her energy and dedication, she served three terms as president over twenty years. In 1920, Jennie died suddenly, possibly from cholera. Her husband, Dr. Thomas Heyward Hays, then Chief of the Royal Thai Navy Hospital, resolved to honor her memory by building a new library on the purchased plot.

Neilson Hays Library: A Neoclassical Masterpiece

Completed in 1922, the library was designed by Italian architect Mario Tamagno, famed for the Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall, Hua Lamphong Railway Station, and other Bangkok landmarks. The Bangkok Times called it “a grand palace on a small scale.” Its symmetrical layout, Italianate dome, stucco motifs, teak fixtures, and double-wall construction were as practical as they were beautiful, protecting books in Bangkok’s humid climate.

War, Loss, and Recovery

The library thrived until 1941, when Japanese forces used it to billet troops. Over 1,000 rare books and the building’s architectural blueprints were sent to Japan; many volumes eventually returned, but some of the rarest works remain missing.

Neilson Hays Library as a Cultural Anchor

Over the years, the library became more than a repository of books. With over 20,000 titles in its English-language collection, it also hosts exhibitions, lectures, and children’s programs. The Rotunda Gallery, Garden Gallery, and shaded café create spaces for reflection and community.

From Restoration to UNESCO Recognition

Heritage recognition has been significant. The Association of Siamese Architects granted it Historic Landmark status in 1986. Between 2016 and 2018, the library underwent a major multi-million-baht restoration, funded entirely by donations from members, patrons, and cultural foundations. In 2022, UNESCO awarded the library an Award of Distinction for Cultural Heritage Conservation, praising the project’s “nuanced understanding of the spirit of place.”

Visit Neilson Hays Library

Non-members are welcome to explore the library’s facilities for a donation of 100 THB per person. As a non-profit organization, Neilson Hays Library is funded by membership subscriptions and community support.

Operating Hours: Tuesday – Sunday: 9:30 AM – 5:00 PM Closed Mondays

Address: Neilson Hays Library 195 Surawong Road, Suriyawongse, Bangrak Bangkok 10500, Thailand

Contact: Phone: 02-233 4999 Email: info@neilsonhayslibrary.org

📍 Find them on Google Maps

Less than a 15-minutes drive from the S15 Hotel, the library offers an excellent opportunity to delve into Bangkok’s rich history. S15 Sukhumvit Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel in Bangkok Sukhumvit that offers easy access to most of the city’s attractions thanks to its convenient location with many transport links on its doorstep. It also offers its own range of excellent amenities including luxury accommodation, spa services, and fine dining options that ensure a comfy and indulgent vacation in the city. When next checking in for a weekend stay, consider a trip to the nearby Neilson Hays Library as part of the cultural experience.